Luoyang
is located in the middle reaches of the Yellow River
in the western part of Henan Province.
It
was the capital of nine dynasties starting from around
770 B.C. The Chinese government has paid special attention
to the protection of historic city, although its ancient
sites have lost much of their original grandeur after
so many changes in history.
Luoyang today is an important industrial city. Since
1953, more than a dozen large-size industrial enterprises
have been established here; major products are tractors
and bearings.
Luoyang is known as the “city of peonies,” and the
best time to visit it is in late spring when the peonies
are in full bloom. It is said that Empress Wu Zetian
(624-705) of the Tang Dynasty once decreed that all
the flowers in her royal garden in the capital Chang’an
(today’s Xi’an) were to bloom in deep winter. The
flowers, afraid of the power of the Empress, all bloomed,
except for the peony. This enraged the empress, who
ordered the peony degraded and moved to Luoyang. Since
then, the plant flourished here.
Longmen Grottoes
Locate twelve kilometers south of Luoyang, the Longmen
Grottoes are among the greatest treasure troves of
ancient stone carving in China, together with Dunhuang
in the northwestern province of Gansu and Yungang
in the northern province of Shanxi.
The work on these grottoes began in 494 during the
Northern Wei Dynasty and continued for more than four
hundred years in the ensuing Sui and Tang dynasties.
The grottoes are cut into precipitous cliffs on both
banks of the Yishui River, and stretch for over a
thousand meters from south to north. The existing
2,100 caves and niches contain more than 100,000 statues
of Buddhist figures in various postures, the largest
rising over seventeen meters and the smallest only
two centimeters. There are also 3,600 inscribed tablets
and forty pagodas here.
The stone sculptures at Longmen represent a new height
on the art of stone carving and the development of
Buddhism in China. The largest Buddhist monastery
at Longmen, the Fengxian Temple, in particular, contains
the most exquisite works of art among the grottoes
and represents the best stone carving techniques of
the Tang Dynasty Emperor Gao Zong (r. 650-683) gave
to his wife, Empress Wu Zetian for cosmetics.
White Horse Temple (Baimasi)
Located about twenty kilometers west of Luoyang and
having a history of 1,900 years, this temple was the
first Buddhist monastery ever built in China and is
still inhabited by monks. During the Easter Han Dynasty
(A.D. 25-220), the emperor dispatched monks to India
to obtain Buddhist scriptures; these were brought
back to China on a white horse, in memory of which
a monastery was built near Luoyang.
The White Horse Temple is a group of compactly arranged
palaces, towers and halls surrounded by scarlet walls
and covered with yellow glazed tiles with many stone
tablets bearing calligraphic inscriptions. The most
magnificent buildings in the temple include the Hall
of Heavenly Kings, the Hall of Great Buddha, the Grand
Hall, the Reception Hall (Jieyindian), the Clear and
Cool Terrace (Qingliangtai), and the southeast is
Matching Clouds Pagoda (Qiyunta), a square structure
24 meters high with thirteen levels.
Other interesting places to visit in Luoyang include
the Guan Yu Grove (Guanlin) where General Guan Yu
of the State of Shu during the Three Kingdoms Period
was buried, the Western Han Tomb with murals inside
the Imperial Palace Park, and ruins of Hanjia Granary
built during the Sui Dynasty at the beginning of the
sixth century.
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